Tamiya Leopard 2a6 Build Thread
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Tamiya Leopard 2a6 Build Thread
Hi Guys,
Last week I received my Tamiya Leopard and I almost ready to begin the build. Before this I have only owned 2 heng long tanks. I dont have experience with building Tamiya tanks so I figured a thread may be able to help. Ive been searching online for the last week trying to piece together what Im going to do.
At the moment I have the Futaba 4yF transmitter and receiver as well as the acrylics that Im going to use as described in the manual. Unfortunately my set was brand new and is missing the manual and paint design reference as well as the tow cables, decals and whatever else is in that plastic portfolio. I looked to the hobby shop and Tamiya to provide a replacement and hopefully I will get it soon.
Im still trying to decide on an air brush set. After all i've read I still cant decide. I dont want to spend a few hundred dollars on a set for this. I was thinking about getting an Iwata neo CN and Neo compressor or just a Master Airbrush set off amazon. I just want something that gets the job done and has a decent enough gravity dual action sprayer. Any thoughts on this before I buy would be appreciated.
Also I havent decided on a battery. Can someone recommend a great quality battery brand I have no idea. Ive had an rc copter go up in flames before. Im looking for one thats 3000-5000mAh.
Id like to use this thread for tips and questions I have thanks.
Last week I received my Tamiya Leopard and I almost ready to begin the build. Before this I have only owned 2 heng long tanks. I dont have experience with building Tamiya tanks so I figured a thread may be able to help. Ive been searching online for the last week trying to piece together what Im going to do.
At the moment I have the Futaba 4yF transmitter and receiver as well as the acrylics that Im going to use as described in the manual. Unfortunately my set was brand new and is missing the manual and paint design reference as well as the tow cables, decals and whatever else is in that plastic portfolio. I looked to the hobby shop and Tamiya to provide a replacement and hopefully I will get it soon.
Im still trying to decide on an air brush set. After all i've read I still cant decide. I dont want to spend a few hundred dollars on a set for this. I was thinking about getting an Iwata neo CN and Neo compressor or just a Master Airbrush set off amazon. I just want something that gets the job done and has a decent enough gravity dual action sprayer. Any thoughts on this before I buy would be appreciated.
Also I havent decided on a battery. Can someone recommend a great quality battery brand I have no idea. Ive had an rc copter go up in flames before. Im looking for one thats 3000-5000mAh.
Id like to use this thread for tips and questions I have thanks.
#2
congratz on the set . A true machine when built :-)
I bought one used ( well, built and shelfed ) last year. And I took it apart to have a look ,and to install a better track tensioner. I got one from Henntec for the tamiya Leo, so you can adjust it from the outside.
Trust me, once closed up , it takes a while to get down into the belly of it again .
I also invested in a better AB gear to last year, after going the cheaper rute first. That compressor lasted 3 Month before it became so noisy , I could not take it anymore .
I went with a sparmax (TC 610H) Compressor and 2 AB's 0,3 and 0,4 mm . Superhappy with that brand . I spent a little more than calculated , but for laying down paint on 1/16 scale It's nice to have a compressor with a 2,5L tank . So it's not running all the time .
When coming to battery, it's really tight in the turret, even after you spent a weekend on the wire layout, hehe. with a heavy nimh ore nicd , the back of turret can sag a little, so I went to my LHS and got 2 lipos , the smalest in footprint in 2s , with the most mah in them ( sadly not more than 2250) and a small lipo alarm. so yes , not the longest drive time with those, but no problem fitting it in the turret , and no sagin.
I bought one used ( well, built and shelfed ) last year. And I took it apart to have a look ,and to install a better track tensioner. I got one from Henntec for the tamiya Leo, so you can adjust it from the outside.
Trust me, once closed up , it takes a while to get down into the belly of it again .
I also invested in a better AB gear to last year, after going the cheaper rute first. That compressor lasted 3 Month before it became so noisy , I could not take it anymore .
I went with a sparmax (TC 610H) Compressor and 2 AB's 0,3 and 0,4 mm . Superhappy with that brand . I spent a little more than calculated , but for laying down paint on 1/16 scale It's nice to have a compressor with a 2,5L tank . So it's not running all the time .
When coming to battery, it's really tight in the turret, even after you spent a weekend on the wire layout, hehe. with a heavy nimh ore nicd , the back of turret can sag a little, so I went to my LHS and got 2 lipos , the smalest in footprint in 2s , with the most mah in them ( sadly not more than 2250) and a small lipo alarm. so yes , not the longest drive time with those, but no problem fitting it in the turret , and no sagin.
#3
Sollie is correct:
Sorting the interior turret wiring is a task and a half and the heavy tank NiMH Battery once placed in the Leo turret will either warp the turret over time and or cause it to immediately sag to the rear, causing the turret to drag or get hung up on the rear deck.
I like the battery placed in the hull solution, that was the main take away tip from the various rc tank forums, a few years back that I received, before my Leo 2 build. Daryl Turner did this custom one off modification to my Leo 2, unique at the time and above my modeling design and fabrication skill level. It works great for easy battery swaps. You can look at your build instructions and figure out your own direct solution to achieve similar results, if that modification is important to you.
NiMH Battery Recommend:
The DuraTrax 7.2V Onyx 4200mAh NiMH Battery DTXC2061 works for me, "lipos" are not a very good or safe idea in my hands
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Duratrax-Onyx-NiMH-6-Cell-7-2V-4200mAh-Stick-Battery-Pack-Standard-Plug-DTXC-/322271694700?hash=item4b08e3cf6c:g:A54AAOSw8w1X5nk j
Important Tips; Tamiya Leopard 2A6 RC Radio Selection.
A. Futaba 4YF-2.4 Channel Radio System, not that great with the Leo 2.
If you are NOT installing a Tamiya Battle Unit, using the Tamiya Main Gun Stabilization Unit or accessing the complex stick controlled lighting features on the Leo, a Futaba 4YF-2.4 will still work for basic driving and shooting and work poorly for everything else. The Futaba 4YF 2.4 does need "one" self centering stick upgrade kit. Get the needed Futaba 2.4 stick parts here by calling and placing your order:
Hobby Services
Champaign, IL
217 398 0007
Futaba 4YF-2.4 Self Centering Stick Parts.
1. HSP78901. 1M10A18201. Swing Arm ST-53, QTY 1
2. HSP67450. 8M00F01002. Spring ST-41, QTY 1.
B. Futaba 4YF-FM 4 Channel Ground Radio System, best choice with the Leo 2.
Tamiya USA highly recommends using the Futaba 4YF-FM 4 Channel Ground Radio if you are using all the tanks features and want to achieve trouble free working access to the TBU, Stabilization Unit and the stick controlled lighting. The FM Ground radio does not need a self centering stick kit.
My Leopard 2A6 build brief is here:
http://www.rctankregiment.com/rctank...=2247&start=20
Great fun to build and run, enjoy the process.
John
Last edited by Pcomm1.v2; 11-30-2016 at 06:08 PM.
#4
In my experience the only thing that really needs addressing is the weak plastic suspension arms. Not a must, but much easier to do in the initial build rather than go back, budget permitting.
http://mitosal.com/Leopard2A6.html
http://mitosal.com/Leopard2A6.html
#5
Hi,
Probably not a valid build solution, if you just upgrade the suspension arms and not the address the other more demanding turret issues. Why?
The Tamiya Leopard 2A6 1/16 rc model history is that it was first commissioned to Tamiya as a corporate presentation model project for Krauss-Maffei and others, then brought to market by Tamiya as a consumer kit. While a flagship Tamiya model, it was not initially purpose designed as an IR outdoor fighter, so in that regard the Leo 2 kit falls well short of the durability performance of the Tamiya WWII rc tank kits. If one actually builds and runs the Tamiya Leo 2 as an infrared fighting model or even as an occasionally used shelf queen runner, you will soon discover just how important it is to address the tank battery location; due to the structural damage that can be done to the plastic turret by the heavy tank battery resting inside. Next turret issue; just how easy it is to upset and damage the turret wiring doing battery swap outs and moving the battery to the hull means you to not need to open up the turret anymore, and that is a good thing.
Anyway, I did use the Impact – Mitosal metal suspension arms, because my build goal was to take the model to the next level past presentation model status and turn it into a very cool tough backyard IR runner, hence the various design improvements to help reach that objective.
The model is going on 6 years old now and has held up brilliantly thanks to the application of Daryl Turner's vision, engineering design and fabrication modeling skills.
John
Last edited by Pcomm1.v2; 11-30-2016 at 10:14 PM.
#7
Plus, your solution adds weight to the weak turret floor, which will damage wrap it, a primary known Leo issue.
Anyway, do share with photos when your Leo eventually burns down...
Last edited by Pcomm1.v2; 12-01-2016 at 06:42 AM.
#8
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congratz on the set . A true machine when built :-)
I bought one used ( well, built and shelfed ) last year. And I took it apart to have a look ,and to install a better track tensioner. I got one from Henntec for the tamiya Leo, so you can adjust it from the outside.
Trust me, once closed up , it takes a while to get down into the belly of it again .
I also invested in a better AB gear to last year, after going the cheaper rute first. That compressor lasted 3 Month before it became so noisy , I could not take it anymore .
I went with a sparmax (TC 610H) Compressor and 2 AB's 0,3 and 0,4 mm . Superhappy with that brand . I spent a little more than calculated , but for laying down paint on 1/16 scale It's nice to have a compressor with a 2,5L tank . So it's not running all the time .
When coming to battery, it's really tight in the turret, even after you spent a weekend on the wire layout, hehe. with a heavy nimh ore nicd , the back of turret can sag a little, so I went to my LHS and got 2 lipos , the smalest in footprint in 2s , with the most mah in them ( sadly not more than 2250) and a small lipo alarm. so yes , not the longest drive time with those, but no problem fitting it in the turret , and no sagin.
I bought one used ( well, built and shelfed ) last year. And I took it apart to have a look ,and to install a better track tensioner. I got one from Henntec for the tamiya Leo, so you can adjust it from the outside.
Trust me, once closed up , it takes a while to get down into the belly of it again .
I also invested in a better AB gear to last year, after going the cheaper rute first. That compressor lasted 3 Month before it became so noisy , I could not take it anymore .
I went with a sparmax (TC 610H) Compressor and 2 AB's 0,3 and 0,4 mm . Superhappy with that brand . I spent a little more than calculated , but for laying down paint on 1/16 scale It's nice to have a compressor with a 2,5L tank . So it's not running all the time .
When coming to battery, it's really tight in the turret, even after you spent a weekend on the wire layout, hehe. with a heavy nimh ore nicd , the back of turret can sag a little, so I went to my LHS and got 2 lipos , the smalest in footprint in 2s , with the most mah in them ( sadly not more than 2250) and a small lipo alarm. so yes , not the longest drive time with those, but no problem fitting it in the turret , and no sagin.
Thanks for the advice, I feel like it would definitely be a good idea to put in a track tensioner. where would you say to buy one from? I see a nice one on RCTank.de
I have not heard of the turret sag so now ill be aware thanks!
Last edited by fizzymike; 12-01-2016 at 06:57 AM.
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Im just worried if the spray gun for master air brush is garbage and if its better to get a better one if it cant do the job. How many cans of nato green do you think I need? I read 7 online somewhere is it really that much?
Last edited by fizzymike; 12-01-2016 at 06:57 AM.
#10
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Sollie is correct:
Sorting the interior turret wiring is a task and a half and the heavy tank NiMH Battery once placed in the Leo turret will either warp the turret over time and or cause it to immediately sag to the rear, causing the turret to drag or get hung up on the rear deck.
I like the battery placed in the hull solution, that was the main take away tip from the various rc tank forums, a few years back that I received, before my Leo 2 build. Daryl Turner did this custom one off modification to my Leo 2, unique at the time and above my modeling design and fabrication skill level. It works great for easy battery swaps. You can look at your build instructions and figure out your own direct solution to achieve similar results, if that modification is important to you.
NiMH Battery Recommend:
The DuraTrax 7.2V Onyx 4200mAh NiMH Battery DTXC2061 works for me, "lipos" are not a very good or safe idea in my hands
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Duratrax-Onyx-NiMH-6-Cell-7-2V-4200mAh-Stick-Battery-Pack-Standard-Plug-DTXC-/322271694700?hash=item4b08e3cf6c:g:A54AAOSw8w1X5nk j
Important Tips; Tamiya Leopard 2A6 RC Radio Selection.
A. Futaba 4YF-2.4 Channel Radio System, not that great with the Leo 2.
If you are NOT installing a Tamiya Battle Unit, using the Tamiya Main Gun Stabilization Unit or accessing the complex stick controlled lighting features on the Leo, a Futaba 4YF-2.4 will still work for basic driving and shooting and work poorly for everything else. The Futaba 4YF 2.4 does need "one" self centering stick upgrade kit. Get the needed Futaba 2.4 stick parts here by calling and placing your order:
Hobby Services
Champaign, IL
217 398 0007
Futaba 4YF-2.4 Self Centering Stick Parts.
1. HSP78901. 1M10A18201. Swing Arm ST-53, QTY 1
2. HSP67450. 8M00F01002. Spring ST-41, QTY 1.
B. Futaba 4YF-FM 4 Channel Ground Radio System, best choice with the Leo 2.
Tamiya USA highly recommends using the Futaba 4YF-FM 4 Channel Ground Radio if you are using all the tanks features and want to achieve trouble free working access to the TBU, Stabilization Unit and the stick controlled lighting. The FM Ground radio does not need a self centering stick kit.
My Leopard 2A6 build brief is here:
http://www.rctankregiment.com/rctank...=2247&start=20
Great fun to build and run, enjoy the process.
John
Thanks for the advice! I did hear about the centering stick upgrade, Ill definitely order the parts from hobby services. I would like to install the GBS unit as well, but I heard that it works slowly. Also thanks for the battery, is that standard connector compatible with tamiya connectors?
Last edited by fizzymike; 12-01-2016 at 06:58 AM.
#11
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In my experience the only thing that really needs addressing is the weak plastic suspension arms. Not a must, but much easier to do in the initial build rather than go back, budget permitting.
http://mitosal.com/Leopard2A6.html
http://mitosal.com/Leopard2A6.html
Last edited by fizzymike; 12-01-2016 at 07:00 AM.
#14
They have great stuff. Just have to be patient with them on communications and delivery time. Also if ordering from them remember to tell them to remove the VAT tax if it's being shipped to the U.S.
#15
No matter what anyone tells you, there is no way any copy of an airbrush is as good as the original and the 'I'll buy cheap and get another in a few years' is ridiculous.
I bought my first Iwata (HP-BC2) in 1986 from the original Pearl Paint in NYC. It's still all original, needle and nozzle and I used it last week and nearly every week over the 30 years. I bought two more over the years for different capacities and the only thing that has changed was the box is no longer wood. And the killer is, they are less expensive since the market is wide open now with the internet. Last one I bought came straight from the Home Islands for $147. My original was well north of $300.
#16
http://www.etoarmour.com/product_det...roductID=HT016
Guido Henn builds very high quality idler systems and I use them myself.
Be advised we are in process of upgrading to a new web sight. This event is scheduled to happen this weekend. If you order and do not have a reply within 24 hours please contact me at etoarmor@yahoo.
#17
As Bennie stated, AFV is a great parts source for your Leo 2 build. I got the MG turret carriage and metal turret storage baskets from AFV.
I used Mitosal's Leopard metal adjustable idler system, because Henntech wasn't around during my build and the Mitosal parts work good. I do use the Henntech idler system, sourced from ETO Armor, on a Leo 1A4 build currently on my work bench and that system is excellent.
Just email Mitosal and ask them if they are still selling parts and if whatever is in stock. I also sourced road wheel bearings from Mitosal, but that was several years ago.
"Thanks for the advice! I did hear about the centering stick upgrade, Ill definitely order the parts from hobby services. I would like to install the GBS unit as well, but I heard that it works slowly. Also thanks for the battery, is that standard connector compatible with tamiya connectors?"
Answers: As to your radio selection, the Futaba 2.4 in my experience, will not operate the Tamiya Leo 2 Stabilization Unit. That fact drove both Daryl Turner and myself crazy for a bit. That is why I later switched out my Futata 2.4 and replaced it with the Futaba FM Ground Radio, per tech advise coming from Tamiya USA. The stabilization unit, TBU and stick light commands then worked perfectly and immediately
The stabilization works well in my model and is not slow, when using the Futaba FM ground radio. The Leo 2A6 DMD Unit is older tech, so that is probably why it is not very compatible with the later to market Futaba 2.4 radio system.
John
#18
Eto has all the Schumo parts for the Leo in stock. The Schumo idler is good but since HennTec came out with their idler system it is out classed but still available. All parts are in the Maryland warehouse.
http://www.etoarmour.com/products.php?ViewCategory=7
http://www.etoarmour.com/products.php?ViewCategory=7
#19
Hey Fizzymike, Paco has been watching this thread but for some reason can't get online at RCU so he asked me to post this link for you. I guess he had the same problems and this was his fix
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-t...6-build-5.html
Just in case the links doesn't act right, he says what you need is on page 5.
EDIT: The link takes you to page 5, so scroll down a bit and you'll find Paco's solution to the turret sag. I think it looks like a great idea. Simple, and gets the job done.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-t...6-build-5.html
Just in case the links doesn't act right, he says what you need is on page 5.
EDIT: The link takes you to page 5, so scroll down a bit and you'll find Paco's solution to the turret sag. I think it looks like a great idea. Simple, and gets the job done.
Last edited by Crius; 12-02-2016 at 01:53 PM.
#20
I'm from the school of 'buy once' for any tool I plan to use. Airbrush is doubly so. If you plan on using it, buy quality otherwise you'll be struggling all the way, screwing up your model and time.
No matter what anyone tells you, there is no way any copy of an airbrush is as good as the original and the 'I'll buy cheap and get another in a few years' is ridiculous.
I bought my first Iwata (HP-BC2) in 1986 from the original Pearl Paint in NYC. It's still all original, needle and nozzle and I used it last week and nearly every week over the 30 years. I bought two more over the years for different capacities and the only thing that has changed was the box is no longer wood. And the killer is, they are less expensive since the market is wide open now with the internet. Last one I bought came straight from the Home Islands for $147. My original was well north of $300.
No matter what anyone tells you, there is no way any copy of an airbrush is as good as the original and the 'I'll buy cheap and get another in a few years' is ridiculous.
I bought my first Iwata (HP-BC2) in 1986 from the original Pearl Paint in NYC. It's still all original, needle and nozzle and I used it last week and nearly every week over the 30 years. I bought two more over the years for different capacities and the only thing that has changed was the box is no longer wood. And the killer is, they are less expensive since the market is wide open now with the internet. Last one I bought came straight from the Home Islands for $147. My original was well north of $300.
#21
I got my Leo 2 second hand the guy had used all AFV upgrades . I did the battery swap from turret to lower hull . git the metal suspension arms if your going to use it a lot .
Jimmy
Jimmy
#22
After you soak all this good info in and start your build just remember to take your time and have fun with it. If you come to a step that doens't make sense or something isn't going together they way it should, just put it down and walk away for a bit. You'll appreciate it later
when you don't have to go back and adjust or fix something that you rushed. Plenty of us have built this sucker so ask away on any questions during your build.
when you don't have to go back and adjust or fix something that you rushed. Plenty of us have built this sucker so ask away on any questions during your build.
#23
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Hi,
Answers: As to your radio selection, the Futaba 2.4 in my experience, will not operate the Tamiya Leo 2 Stabilization Unit. That fact drove both Daryl Turner and myself crazy for a bit. That is why I later switched out my Futata 2.4 and replaced it with the Futaba FM Ground Radio, per tech advise coming from Tamiya USA. The stabilization unit, TBU and stick light commands then worked perfectly and immediately
The stabilization works well in my model and is not slow, when using the Futaba FM ground radio. The Leo 2A6 DMD Unit is older tech, so that is probably why it is not very compatible with the later to market Futaba 2.4 radio system.
John
Answers: As to your radio selection, the Futaba 2.4 in my experience, will not operate the Tamiya Leo 2 Stabilization Unit. That fact drove both Daryl Turner and myself crazy for a bit. That is why I later switched out my Futata 2.4 and replaced it with the Futaba FM Ground Radio, per tech advise coming from Tamiya USA. The stabilization unit, TBU and stick light commands then worked perfectly and immediately
The stabilization works well in my model and is not slow, when using the Futaba FM ground radio. The Leo 2A6 DMD Unit is older tech, so that is probably why it is not very compatible with the later to market Futaba 2.4 radio system.
John
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Etoarmor has them in stock in the Maryland warehouse. Here's the link:
http://www.etoarmour.com/product_det...roductID=HT016
Guido Henn builds very high quality idler systems and I use them myself.
Be advised we are in process of upgrading to a new web sight. This event is scheduled to happen this weekend. If you order and do not have a reply within 24 hours please contact me at etoarmor@yahoo.
http://www.etoarmour.com/product_det...roductID=HT016
Guido Henn builds very high quality idler systems and I use them myself.
Be advised we are in process of upgrading to a new web sight. This event is scheduled to happen this weekend. If you order and do not have a reply within 24 hours please contact me at etoarmor@yahoo.