craigers22

Hello everyone. I am new to the site and new to the RC World! Please forgive me if I am posting in the wrong place. I recently picked up a 4x4 truck which I believe to be a Team Losi. I am starting to second guess myself because the parts I am ordering do not seem to fit. So I figured I would ask the pros!! I'm attaching a few pictures of the vehicle and any and all information that you may have, would be so appreciated! Thank you in advance for any advice/help you may have to offer!

Craig

Things I need to get this truck back on the road-

Electric Starter Rod.
Battery Charger
A Body That Fits

I purchased a Losi LS2 model body and it is way off. I also purchased an electric starter with a starting rod but the head seems to be incorrect because it will not engage the engine and or starter gear and nothing is stripped or broken. If this looks familiar and you can help, I would be so grateful! Thanks again.

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

Losi LST2 or XXL

If the LST2 body is too short then it's the XXL
The engine has been changed so you will need to get the correct starter rod for that engine. It will probably be the HPI rotostart rod with the "T" end.
Any Nicd/Nimh charger with a Futaba style connector will work.

cbaker65

That's a nice truck ,they are very durable ,the starter shaft is indeed a dog bone style shaft like Hpi!

1QwkSport2.5r

Definitely an LST2 based on what I see.

The Saylors

I know you already got your question answered but i wanted to say THANK YOU FOR USING GOOD PICS!!. Way too many people put up a tiny picture or a picture of a picture making identification super hard if not impossible. Good looking truck, with a little tlc she will live again. Good luck!

1QwkSport2.5r

+1 to the last post and I'll just add that you probably won't find a tougher monster truck. These things are ridiculously tough. The only things I would change is I would go back to stock shock towers and suspension arms. If you boil the plastic parts in a double boiler for 30 seconds and install them, they will be far more durable than the aluminum parts on the truck now. Arms and shock towers bend and crack and finding replacement parts is a real chore. The stock parts are readily available and really are pretty stout. I have two LST2s and I will never use aluminum suspension parts on either one. One of my trucks is running a modified Picco .28 and the other one has a modified Novarossi Legend 28-8. They're great trucks - I'll never part with either of mine.

craigers22

Hey everyone! Thank you so much for the reply's I'm excited to bring this beast back to life. I have a 2 year old son who is absolutely obsessed with cars at the moment and goes straight to this truck when he wakes up in the morning. I cant wait for him to see it run, he's part of my inspiration for getting it all fixed up. You have no idea how much of a help everyone on the forum is and I appreciate you taking your time to help me. I'm adding a picture of the body that I purchased. Is there a way I can modify it to fit the truck? Its a pretty cool looking body in my opinion. I'm just worried that the engine vent does not line up and it causing possible cooling issues.

Craig

craigers22

Awesome!! I'm glad to hear its a great truck! I actually have the original tires and suspension that came with the truck as well as a box of random parts. I will try the boiling technique as that's a great idea and then install them to the truck. I'm extremely excited to get this thing going and eventually give it to my son! Is the Sure Fire a good choice for an engine? from my research I believe its a .032?

craigers22

You're welcome,it took me quite some time to get those loaded!! Hey The Saylors, I also live in Tacoma Wa, I'm in Lakewood right by American Lake. are there any good tracks that your recommend to take this truck to once shes running?

The Saylors

unfortunately i have yet to find a local track that allows nitro regularly. Im in the process of making a track at my dad's property in Eatonville because of this. There will be special events here and there but nothing regularly. Because of our lovely weather most tracks are inside making fumes the issue. You are literally 9 minutes away from me lol i'm on the midland exit on 512, small world. There is a place that i run my nitro at the corner of 176th and canyon called Fredrickson. The only thing on that side is a mcdonalds. They were trying to make another shopping area and ran out of money so there is a huge area of bare dirt to run on as well as some hills, there is also a loop of unused streets that people use to walk their dogs which is perfect for nitro break in and tuning. In all honesty the only track that i like so far in this state is the outdoor public track in seatac but its too much of a drive to go there often. If you ever wanna get out there and bash then send me a pm and we'll go tear up some dirt! Also if that body doesn't fit then sell it and get the right one. as long as you haven't cut on it you will get most of your money back easy. If you have cut on it then get a proper set of body shears and do your best (its a lot harder than it looks especially the first time.) Try to keep in mind that a body is more about armor then looks (even though most people are concerned with the latter) so even if its not perfect it will do the job lol.

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

That body is for the XXL-2 Gasser . The opening in the bed is for the fuel cap.
You can run it like that if you want and if the body posts don't line up then get a body reamer or a step bit,carefully measure/mark the new hole locations and carefully drill them out..

Mechanicaloverlord

The truck you have is the LST1, the first LST. This is important if you ever need suspension parts as the LST2 and later XXL trucks use a different cvd axle, knuckles, c-hubs, bearings and suspension arms. The LST1 and Aftershock share the same suspension. LST2 is basically your truck with threaded shock bodies and the different suspension pieces, which all bolt on to your truck but you need to use all of them, not just one piece. The various XXL trucks are LST2's with a longer chassis.

I personally dont like aluminum suspension arms either but I'd just run it as is. You might be able to sell off the aluminum and stock plastic parts and almost pay for the LST2 suspension upgrade (stock plastic LST2 suspension parts are very tough) but then you'd need new wheel hex adapters too. Ask and we'll gladly detail the steps if you ever decide to do the LST2 suspension conversion. Btw your current arms appear to be Integy or RD Logics and the towers are Dynamite.

As as for the body, you can probably find an original Losi Aftershock body on eBay for a direct fit. Original LST1 and LST2 bodies are going to be harder to find. Bodies are a wear item though so don't worry too much about cutting and trashing the one you have. Line up the body posts up front so the tires won't rub in turns. Put a dab of paint or rub magic marker on the rear posts and set the body down on them. Your new rear holes are now marked. You can cut open the bed a little to access the fuel tank with the body on but to get to the glow plug you'd need to cut the cab. Cutting the cab will weaken the body too much so I'd just leave it alone and take the body off for starting and fueling. There's also aftermarket bodies from the likes of Proline but they'd need to be painted.

Mechanicaloverlord

A couple more things that you probably need that you didn't mention and will make your life easier. New fuel line, new fuel tank and air filter oil. Ditch the fuel filter when you replace the line, they really aren't needed, just carry a small brush to brush dirt away from the lid before opening it. Fuel filters tend to be a source of air leaks, same with old fuel line. Ditto for the primer on older fuel tanks, save yourself the tuning headaches and head scratching now instead of later.

Its hard to tell exactly how dirty the air filter is and there is an outer prefilter on it too. Clean both with regular dish soap (I like dawn), let dry and oil the inner filter, not the outer prefilter. Just dab some oil around the filter and knead the filter to work it in.

I'd also hop on YouTube and watch some videos. Nitro engine tuning, oiling the air filter, etc. Pretty much all subjects are covered somewhere and having sound can be more informative than just reading text, especially the engine tuning part.

1QwkSport2.5r

If it has tiny nuts that hold the wheels on, it's LST1/Aftershock territory. If it has large 17mm wheel nuts, it's got LST2 axles in it. If the former, the wheel nuts might be left hand thread on one side.

Mechanicaloverlord

Thats one way to determine LST1 vs LST2. An easy way to tell from the posted pictures is to look at the rear and see if it has tie rods back there. This truck does indicating LST1/Aftershock style suspension. In a couple of the pics you can see the c-hubs clear enough to tell they're LST1 as well. This particular truck has 23mm hex adapters on it for the Proline Cheyenne wheels with the original wheel nut in the middle holding the 23mm adapters on. As Quick mentioned on one side, the right side, those smaller nuts in the middle will be left hand thread (turn left to tighten) to prevent loosening while running. Those smaller nuts on the left side are normal thread. The 23mm adapters are normal threads on both sides.

Do you think we've overloaded the op with information yet? Lol

1QwkSport2.5r

Not yet.. . The aftershock I had didn't have LH threaded axles on the one side. All four corners were RH threaded. LoL.

LST1 for sure - I stand corrected. Also, the turnbuckle on the left rear is bent.

Mechanicaloverlord

Neither did mine, but I changed out the stub axles. I kept the original cvd shafts though so one side they were black the other side they were chrome.